Chasing Cicadas and Cinema: Our Dream Summer in the Luberon Valley, Provence
There is a specific kind of magic that belongs entirely to Provence in July. It’s the heavy, golden heat, the frantic but comforting rhythm of the cicadas, and the way the air smells faintly of lavender, warm earth, and ripening grapes. Last summer, we set out to experience this firsthand, and we found a slice of paradise in the heart of the Luberon Valley.
Local Brew
Cigales is French for cicadas. This local beer became a fave of the group, and was ubiquitous in the Luberon Valley.
If you are planning your own escape to the south of France, pack your linen, practice your “Bonjour,” and get ready to fall in love. Here is a look inside our unforgettable Provencal summer.
Staying at a Hollywood Legend’s Vineyard: Mas des Infermières
When booking accommodation in Provence, you expect charming stone walls and vineyard views. What we didn’t expect was to find ourselves living inside the creative sanctuary of a cinematic icon.
We stayed at Mas des Infermières, the breathtaking estate owned by filmmaker Ridley Scott. Long before he decided to expand the property and open more luxury rentals, there was one original guest house. That house is called Les Chênes Verts, and for one glorious week, it was ours.
Nestled right next to the estate’s working winery, the villa was the perfect blend of rustic Provencal charm and modern luxury. The estate produces its own incredible, bee-friendly natural wine (and yes, we tasted plenty of it!).
One of the absolute highlights of our stay was the estate's summer movie series. They set up a massive outdoor screen on the grounds to project Ridley’s iconic films, as well as those of his late brother, Tony Scott. Watching Gladiator under a blanket of stars, surrounded by the very vineyards of the director's estate, was a surreal, "pinch-me" moment we will never forget.
Tip for staying here: The estate has a fantastic host who feels like a personal concierge. They provide a incredibly detailed house book listing every local market schedule, town highlight, and restaurant recommendation you could ever need. It became our bible for the week.
The lovely entrance to our villa
Photo courtesy of Mas des Infermières
The Ultimate Provencal Essential: A Rental Car
Before we dive into the towns, let’s talk logistics. You absolutely, undeniably need a car to experience Provence. We drove everywhere, winding through narrow cliffside roads and past sprawling sunflower fields. Looking back, I genuinely cannot imagine how we would have managed without one.
A car gives you the freedom to chase the market schedules and stumble upon quiet, empty viewpoints. Funnily enough, the Lavender Museum (Musée de la Violette / Musée de la Lavande) became our ultimate guidepost for the trip. We passed by it constantly as we navigated in and out of town. Naturally, we had to stop in, and it rewarded us with some of the most wonderful lavender ice cream I've ever tasted—the absolute perfect treat for a hot July afternoon.
Tip for transportation: To get to the Luberon Valley, you can arrive via air in Marseilles or by train in Avignon. We were coming from Paris so we took the train and picked up our rental car at the Avignon train station. We did have some friends fly into Marseilles and they took a car service to our villa. Both Avignon train station and the Marseille airport were about an hour drive from the property.
Lavender fields in the Luberon Valley (these are not at the lavender museum)
Wandering the Hilltop Towns & Epic Dinners
Our strategy was simple: wake up, consult our trusty estate book, and choose a direction. We spent our days road-tripping to iconic spots like Avignon, Roussillon (with its stunning ochre cliffs), Saint-Rémy, and the antique-haven of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
But of all the places we visited, my absolute favorite town was Ménerbes.
We actually arrived on a day when there wasn't a local market happening, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The town was quiet, peaceful, and impossibly romantic. We spent hours wandering through its super charming boutiques, picking up unique local finds. For lunch, we sat at a terrace overlooking the sweeping valley below—a view I can still see when I close my eyes.
Wandering the streets in Ménerbes
We loved Ménerbes so much we returned one evening for dinner at La Marie des Bastides. Eating dinner in a lovely outdoor setting completely surrounded by vineyards as the sun goes down is the epitome of the South of France lifestyle.
Another dining experience that completely blew us away was in Bonnieux. We booked a table at La Bergerie, which is located on the grounds of a truly spectacular hotel, Capelongue Bonnieux, a Beaumier hotel. The outdoor dining setup was pure magic, offering a gorgeous, front-row view of the sunset over the valley. It was here that I had the absolute best truffle pizza of my life. (Naturally, it was so good that we ate it immediately and completely forgot to take photos! But not to worry, the Michelin Guide has us covered).
The white truffle pizza at La Bergerie, photo courtesy of the Michelin Guide
Embracing the Slow Pace
While we loved the day trips, some of our favorite memories were made by doing absolutely nothing. July in Provence is hot, and by mid-week, we desperately needed a "down day."
We spent twenty-four hours strictly lounging by our villa pool, swimming to beat the heat, drinking chilled estate wine, and letting the relentless, hypnotic soundtrack of the cicadas wash over us. It was pure bliss, and a reminder that Provence isn't just a place to see, it’s a rhythm you have to step into.
Final Thoughts
Whether you are a film buff, a wine lover, or just someone looking to slow down and eat incredible food, the Luberon Valley delivers. Staying at Mas des Infermières gave us a unique, magical home base, but the real heart of the trip was the freedom of the open road, the taste of lavender ice cream, and sunset dinners overlooking the vineyards.
Until next time, Provence. Santé!